Anatomy of Our Signature Line
Welcome to the Anatomy of our Signature Line.
Through a year of design and analysis, we present a breakdown of our first product. Compared to the average retailer, our shirts have been proportionally redesigned with a smaller frame in mind. In this deep dive, we'll take a closer look at each section that makes our quintessential dress shirt the last one you'll ever need.
2.5 inches from neck to point. [put this in an closeup image]
Typically, formal dress shirts are designed with a 3" or 2" collar. At 3" wide, the collar may appear mismatched and too large on a smaller frame, while a 2" wide collar may appear far too casual when paired with a tie in a formal setting. By redesigning our collars with a slight spread and 2.5" width, our shirts have a much more versatile, flattering style when coupled with a full suit and can also be worn unbuttoned for a more casual and relaxed look.
[Closeup of the size]
Separate from collar style, collar size is an oddly common issue that shorter men deal with. Let's take someone with a 14.5" neck circumference. An off-the-rack "XS" size has a 14.5" neck. However, when worn, it may feel restrictive around the neck and does not allow for the top-most button to be buttoned. Going up a size, a 15" neck may prove to have too much space. To correct this in our designs, a finger width's space is allotted to eliminate any choking tendencies of a tight collar.
[closeup of armholes]
If you've ever visited a tailor and asked to raise the armhole of a shirt, it is a time consuming and costly alteration in which expert tailors would not recommend trying to fix. A larger armhole leaves a billowy feeling along the sleeve and creates an ill-fitting silhouette along the body. Considering our pet peeve for excess fabric, we've resized the armhole with a higher rise, while leaving ample room for comfortable movement in all directions.
[length of sleeve]
By far, the most common issue that plagues shorter men is the length of an off-the-rack sleeve. It is simple fix for a local tailor, but for consumers, a linger sense of dissatisfaction and annoyance comes with a too-long sleeve. Not to mention the additional cost to fix it to a proper length. Our sleeves are designed with shorter length and tapered along its edge to eliminate any additional alterations.
After much surveying and research, we could body width to be another common issue. Compared to Napoleon & Co.'s Signature Slim fits, other retailer's "Slim" & "Extra-Slim" fits still feel rather billowy around the mid-section. To remedy this issue, we've given the body width a slight taper and removed enough fabric to have our shirting sit near, but not completely against your skin. After all, too tight of a fit is just as unsightly as a too-large of a fit.
Cotton: Long Staple vs. Short Staple
Compared to short staple cotton, long-staple cotton provides a robust foundation to make the highest quality dress shirts.
Read more about the differences in cotton here. In summary, long staple cotton is stronger, softer, and more lustrous than its shorter staple counterparts.
Weave & Finishing
A twill weave was chosen as our Signature style due to its superb draping effect which falls neatly against all body types with a beautiful and subtle sheen. Each shirt is finished with a true non-iron treatment to minimize wrinkles and creases. The seams specifically are constructed to eliminate messy bumps, resulting in a smooth and refined outline. Take a look at Threading to learn more on how we've constructed our shirts to create the perfect finish.
Simplicity is core to our design philosophy. To that effect, loose tags and labels are reduced to a minimum as we tend to find them prodding and poking when left to their own devices. For fabric information and wash & care instructions, refer to the underside of the center placket (button strip). No more pesky tags to bother your sides.