Fabric Length, Thread Count, and Weave

Long Staple Cotton

When it comes to choosing a dress shirt, Fabric Length, Thread Count, and Weave Types are afterthoughts, perhaps even not-a-thought.

Fabric Length

Cotton is and remains the most versatile fabric used in dress shirting due to its natural breathability and durability. But not all cotton is made the same. When used in materials, cotton is typically made with either one of two strains: short or long staple cotton. A staple is the length of a single cotton fiber. The longer the fiber, the stronger, more lustrous, and softer the finished material will look and feel against your skin.

Thread Count

Thread count is a simple concept, but widely misinterpreted. Let’s clarify its definition once and for all. Thread count refers to how many individual threads of yarn and in a square inch of a fabric. A higher thread count means it will be more comfortable due to the tight spacing in between each thread. A common denotation of thread count is “100s”, or “100/2”. An added bonus to a higher thread count is a slight cooling effect when you hold it against your skin. This liquid-like effect is one of the most defining characteristics of our shirting.


Weave refers to yarn threads are woven together to create sheet of fabric. Our Signature shirts are made with a Twill weave, but there are many variations such as Poplin, Oxford, Herringbone, and Dobby-type specialty weaves. Each weave will produce its own characteristic luster, some more apparent than others.


At Napoleon & Co., we choose to treat our Signature Line with a true Non-Iron Dip. Non-Iron is a process where a finished fully constructed garment is dipped in a liquid mixture, specially designed to bond cotton fibers closer together, yielding a fabric that is much more difficult to crease and wrinkle. The only caveat to this process is that only higher, heavier thread count fabrics can be finished with a Non-Iron treatment. For professional dress shirting, we spend countless hours testing and researching new materials to ensure a non-iron or wrinkle resistant fabric is used.

Napoleon & Co. Shirting

Our Signature Line combines long cotton fibers, high thread count, a super fine weave, and finished with a true Non-Iron treatment to create a luxurious, soft, and long-lasting dress shirt that you’ll never want to take off.